Sistering Lumber to existing Ceiling Joists

By Mark J. Donovan

Turning an otherwise unused large attic space into a bedroom or game room is a great idea to create more living space in your home.

However, if you are considering creating a bedroom in an attic you will probably need to sister new lumber, such as 2x6s or 2x8s to the existing ceiling joists. If the ceiling joists are on 24” centers then you should also add new ceiling joists (floor joists) in between the existing ceiling joists. These steps are extremely important when converting an attic into a formal living space. The additional lumber will help to ensure the new bedroom floor won't flex and/or cause cracks in the ceiling drywall below the attic.

Check with your local building inspector to determine your attic’s specific framing needs prior to beginning construction.

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A Dremel Tool is the tool of choice for Removing Grout around a Broken Tile

By Mark J. Donovan

If you need to replace a broken ceramic tile, then you are going to first need to remove the old grout from around it. A Dremel Tool, such as the Dremel MultiPro Cordless 7700-02 20,000 RPM Two-Speed 7.2V Rotary Tool System w/50 Accessories, is perfect for removing grout on small ceramic tile repair projects.

To remove grout from around ceramic tile, care has to be taken not to damage the surrounding tiles. A hammer and chisel can be used for removing the grout, however you run the risk of damaging the neighboring tiles. A dremel tool on the other hand, has a high speed rotary head that you can insert various bits onto, such as a cutter, that can make short work of removing old grout.

A dremel tool is relatively inexpensive and has a million and one applications around the home. Take a look at one, prior to making your next tile repair.

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Fix a Leaky Faucet Drain Pipe

By Mark J. Donovan

Question: I recently installed a new faucet and see that I have a small leak in the drain assembly area. It looks like it is at the top of the tail pipe where it connects to the base of the sink. How can I fix this leak?

Answer: First, go to your local home improvement store and pick up some plumbers putty. Plumbers putty is key to eliminating your link.

The drain tail pipe screws into the drain assembly nut that sits in the bottom of the sink. Apply a bead of plumbers putty to the bottom side of this nut. The bead should be about ¼ inch thick and should rap around the back side of the nut.

Once you have attached the bead of plumbers putty to the backside of the nut, screw the tail pipe into it from the bottom of the sink (in the cabinet area).

Before tightening the tailpipe into the drain nut make sure there is a large rubber washer sitting between the metal flange at the top of the tail pipe and the underside of the sink.

Tighten carefully with a pair of large channel lock pliers and your leak should be a thing of the past.

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Solar Energy for the Home

By Mark J. Donovan

Solar power has great potential for the home, however in my opinion it is still not there for the average homeowner. It is just still too expensive for the average homeowner to install and the payback is extremely long.

I recently investigated adding solar panels to my home and was less than impressed with the material and labor costs.

There are a couple of websites that actually provide online tools to aid in calculating roof solar panels and associated hardware for your specific home needs/goals.

Using these tools, I determined it would take about 30-35 years to break even on the investment; however the warranty on the panels was around 25 years.

In my opinion the ROI is too long, and the warranty needs to be at least as long as the time it takes to recover the costs.

Solar panel technology is improving and I think it is an excellent complementary source of power to the home. However, prices still need to drop before this market really explodes. Readmore »»

How to Avoid the Home Remodeling Contractor Blues

By Mark J. Donovan

When hiring a home remodeling contractor know in advance what you actually want done before hiring a contractor.

Key items to address before calling potential contracors includes:

1) Create your own drawings and list of key features you want to see in your new home or home addition.

2) Develop a target budget for the home remodeling project. Get some basic material costs from your local home improvement contractor.

3) Develop a timeline for starting and completing the project.

Once you have these key items solved in your own mind, then begin the contractor bid solication process.

Finally, remember to never overpay the contractor in terms of an initial deposit. The overall payment policy should be "pay-as-you-go". If the contractor gets ahead of you on payment receipts you will have less bargaining power to address contractor mistakes.

For more help on Hiring a Home Remodeling contactor see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Home Addition Bid Sheets. Readmore »»

Top 35 Home and Garden Tools for every Homeowner

By Mark J. Donovan

If you are in the process of buying your first home you need to get prepared to make the occasional home repair. Thus you are going to need to buy some basic home and garden tools.

If you are a homeowner who has plans for remodeling a home then you are going to need an even bigger tool chest. Listed below is my top 35 list of key home and garden tools for every homeowner.

1) Hammer - A 16 ounce claw hammer.
2) 25' Measuring Tape
3) Handsaw
4) Level
5) Screwdriver set
6) Socket and Wrench set
7) Crescent Wrench
8) Adjustable Pliers
9) Needle-Nose Pliers
10 Carpenters Knife
11) Wire Cutter
12) Paint Brushes
13) Paint Pan
14) Paint Roller
15) Sandpaper
16) Square
17) Straight Pipe Plumbers Wrench
18) Screwgun with Drillbits
19) Putty Knife
20) Saftey Glasses
21) Lawnmower
22) Fertilizer Spreader
23) Metal Rake
24) Yard Rake
25) Shovel
26) Circular Skill Saw
27) Table Saw
28) Electric Drill
29) Coping Saw
30) Pipe Cutter
31) Plumbers Tape
32) Miter Saw
33) Reciprocating Saw
34) Chainsaw
35) Toolbox

See HomeAdditionPlus's Tool Store to find your home and garden tools. Readmore »»

A Framing Square is a Key Tool in any Carpentry Project

By Mark J. Donovan

A framing square is an integral part of any carpenter’s tool set. It is used for a multitude of framing applications. Besides aiding in making 90o angle framing cuts, it is extremely useful in framing stairs and roofs.

A framing square is constructed out of steel or aluminum. It has two arms that are positioned at a right angle to each other. One of the arms is referred to as the blade and is two inches in width and 24 inches in length. The second arm is referred to as the tongue and is 1.5 inches in width and 14-18 inches in length. The corner of the framing square is referred to as the heel.

On each of the arms there is a stamped in graduated scale in inches. The scales are stamped on both sides of the square. On the face of the square (usually determined by the manufacturer’s label) the graduated scale is broken down to 1/8th and 1/16th intervals. On the back of the square the graduated scale is broken down to 1/12th of an inch intervals.

For homeowners who are looking to simply make right angle cuts the use of a framing square is fairly self evident. The blade of the framing square should be placed up to the edge of the lumber (e.g. 2x4) and the tongue should lie perpendicularly across the top of the lumber. A line can then be made along the length of the tongue and a straight perpendicular cut can then be made. The Stanley 45-300 Aluminum Carpenters Square is an excellent framing square for any framing application.

For framing stairs, hip roofs, or rafters a more in-depth understanding of how to use the framing square is required. A book on framing, such as the Graphic Guide to Frame Construction: Details for Builders and Designers (For Pros by Pros), can provide the detailed instructions for utilizing a framing squire for these applications.

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