By Mark J. Donovan
If you have carpeting that is still in great shape, with the exception of some fraying around an entranceway threshold, then you will want to watch this video.
In this video, the carpeting has frayed between the threshold of a bathroom and hallway. The bathroom flooring is vinyl and the hall way is carpeting. The edge strip for the carpet looks a little beat up and the carpet is starting to fray on the tack strip.
Using a new wooden carpet trim piece, you can cover up the old metal strip as well as hide the fraying.
Take a look at this video to learn the specifics for making this small home repair.
Readmore »»
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Monday, August 4, 2008
Troubleshooting and Fixing a Frost Free Leaky Sillcock
By Mark J. Donovan
Is your outdoor frost free faucet, also known as a Sillcock, leaking? Chances are you can fix it on your own and save yourself a bundle in plumber repair costs.
Determine where the Leak is
To fix a leaky Sillcock it is first necessary to see where the water is leaking from. Check to see if it is leaking out the spout itself.
Also check to see if it is leaking around the top cap that sits just back behind the handle. Sometimes this cap can become loose and all you need to do is simply hand tighten it. Overtime this cap can become loose due to swings in summer and winter temperatures or simply from frequent use of the sillcock.
If the leak is occurring from the spout, even after you have tightened the handle, then chances are you have a faulty washer sitting back beneath the sillcock handle.
Disassembling the Sillcock
To replace the washer, first turn the water off to the sillcock. Usually this valve can be found inside the home, e.g. the basement or utility room.
Next, rotate the handle of the sillcock to the on position to relieve any pressure in it and to drain the water.
Using a screwdriver remove the screw that holds the handle onto the sillcock.
With the screw removed, pull off the handle.
After removing the handle, use a crescent wrench to remove the sillcock nut that sits back behind the handle.
Replace Washer and Clean Internal Sillcock area
The washer that typically fails sits behind the sillcock nut. Remove it and look for damage or wear. If you see either, replace the washer. Also, make sure there are no particulates or sediment/grit inside the sillcock. If there is, flush it out with water.
Re-assemble Sillcock
With the washer replaced and the internal sillcock area free of any particles, reattach the sillcock nut cap, the handle, and the screw that holds the handle onto the sillcock.
Turn Water back on and Test Sillcock
Turn the water back on to the sillcock and observe water flowing freely from the faucet.
Turn the handle to the off position. With any luck there should be no more dribbles or dripping.
Note that with a frost free sillcock, the valve is far back into the home, (approximately 8 inches) so you should expect to see a few drips for a minute or so after closing the faucet handle. After that the sillcock should be drip free.
Readmore »»
Is your outdoor frost free faucet, also known as a Sillcock, leaking? Chances are you can fix it on your own and save yourself a bundle in plumber repair costs.
Determine where the Leak is
To fix a leaky Sillcock it is first necessary to see where the water is leaking from. Check to see if it is leaking out the spout itself.
Also check to see if it is leaking around the top cap that sits just back behind the handle. Sometimes this cap can become loose and all you need to do is simply hand tighten it. Overtime this cap can become loose due to swings in summer and winter temperatures or simply from frequent use of the sillcock.
If the leak is occurring from the spout, even after you have tightened the handle, then chances are you have a faulty washer sitting back beneath the sillcock handle.
Disassembling the Sillcock
To replace the washer, first turn the water off to the sillcock. Usually this valve can be found inside the home, e.g. the basement or utility room.
Next, rotate the handle of the sillcock to the on position to relieve any pressure in it and to drain the water.
Using a screwdriver remove the screw that holds the handle onto the sillcock.
With the screw removed, pull off the handle.
After removing the handle, use a crescent wrench to remove the sillcock nut that sits back behind the handle.
Replace Washer and Clean Internal Sillcock area
The washer that typically fails sits behind the sillcock nut. Remove it and look for damage or wear. If you see either, replace the washer. Also, make sure there are no particulates or sediment/grit inside the sillcock. If there is, flush it out with water.
Re-assemble Sillcock
With the washer replaced and the internal sillcock area free of any particles, reattach the sillcock nut cap, the handle, and the screw that holds the handle onto the sillcock.
Turn Water back on and Test Sillcock
Turn the water back on to the sillcock and observe water flowing freely from the faucet.
Turn the handle to the off position. With any luck there should be no more dribbles or dripping.
Note that with a frost free sillcock, the valve is far back into the home, (approximately 8 inches) so you should expect to see a few drips for a minute or so after closing the faucet handle. After that the sillcock should be drip free.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Converting a Kitchen Cabinet into a College Student Dresser
By Mark J. Donovan
With two sons off to college this fall, my wife and I are actively working towards their departure from the nest. This weekend I decided to tackle a small project that converted a kitchen cabinet into a mini student dresser.
Several years ago I received a kitchen cabinet that was slightly damaged during its shipment to a home I was building. The manufacturer sent me a new one, and left the original for me to deal with. It has been sitting in my garage for a couple of years and over the weekend I finally decided it was time to do something with it.
The kitchen cabinet has four drawers and is 18” wide by 24” deep. I decided that if I mounted a top to it, that it could serve as a dresser for storing school supplies and supporting a microwave or printer.
To install a top on the cabinet, I used a ½” sheet of finished plywood. I cut it to the dimensions of 19” x 25 1/5” so that it overhung the sides by ½” and the front by 1 1/2”.
I then attached fastening rails to the inside edges of the top of the cabinet. The rails were approximately 3/4” x 3/4” width and height, and cut to the inside length of the cabinet sides.
I attached the rails to the cabinet side-walls with 1 ¼” screws, from the inside so that no screws showed from the outside of the cabinet.
I then round the front edges of the plywood top using a jigsaw, and then sanded it thoroughly. I sanded it first with a rough (100 grit) sand paper, and then with a finer 400 grit sandpaper.
I then applied a coat of mahogany stain to the top.
Next, I secured the top to the cabinet (dresser) using 1 ½” screws. The screws were applied from the inside of the cabinet, via the freshly installed rails. This enabled a finished top surface that is clean from any screws/nails.
Prior to screwing the top to the cabinet rails, I drilled pilot holes through the bottom of the rails to avoid splitting and to ease in the fastening of the rails.
Finally, I added two coats of polyurethane to the top.
Now, one of my college bound sons has a brand new mini-dresser / night stand for storing school supplies.
Readmore »»
With two sons off to college this fall, my wife and I are actively working towards their departure from the nest. This weekend I decided to tackle a small project that converted a kitchen cabinet into a mini student dresser.
Several years ago I received a kitchen cabinet that was slightly damaged during its shipment to a home I was building. The manufacturer sent me a new one, and left the original for me to deal with. It has been sitting in my garage for a couple of years and over the weekend I finally decided it was time to do something with it.
The kitchen cabinet has four drawers and is 18” wide by 24” deep. I decided that if I mounted a top to it, that it could serve as a dresser for storing school supplies and supporting a microwave or printer.
To install a top on the cabinet, I used a ½” sheet of finished plywood. I cut it to the dimensions of 19” x 25 1/5” so that it overhung the sides by ½” and the front by 1 1/2”.
I then attached fastening rails to the inside edges of the top of the cabinet. The rails were approximately 3/4” x 3/4” width and height, and cut to the inside length of the cabinet sides.
I attached the rails to the cabinet side-walls with 1 ¼” screws, from the inside so that no screws showed from the outside of the cabinet.
I then round the front edges of the plywood top using a jigsaw, and then sanded it thoroughly. I sanded it first with a rough (100 grit) sand paper, and then with a finer 400 grit sandpaper.
I then applied a coat of mahogany stain to the top.
Next, I secured the top to the cabinet (dresser) using 1 ½” screws. The screws were applied from the inside of the cabinet, via the freshly installed rails. This enabled a finished top surface that is clean from any screws/nails.
Prior to screwing the top to the cabinet rails, I drilled pilot holes through the bottom of the rails to avoid splitting and to ease in the fastening of the rails.
Finally, I added two coats of polyurethane to the top.
Now, one of my college bound sons has a brand new mini-dresser / night stand for storing school supplies.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Removing old Exterior Caulk
By Mark J. Donovan
Overtime exterior caulk dries out and cracks, no matter what the manufacturer promises.
When the old exterior caulk shows signs of cracking it is time to replace it.
Removing old caulk begins with a carpenter’s knife and a flat screw driver or putty knife.
Using the carpenter’s knife score (cut) the old caulk line along the edge of the surfaces areas it is in contact with.
Once you have scored the old exterior caulk, use a screw driver and/or putty knife to dig the old exterior caulk out of the seam. This process can take a little time, however it is important to get all of it out of the seam before re-caulking.
Once you have removed the caulk, sweep and clean out the seam.
After you have thoroughly removed any loose particles and dust in and around the seam, apply a new bead of exterior caulk to the seam.
To help ensure smooth caulk lines, you may consider applying masking tape on either side of the seam before applying the caulk. Just remember to remove the tape immediately after applying the caulk.
Readmore »»
Overtime exterior caulk dries out and cracks, no matter what the manufacturer promises.
When the old exterior caulk shows signs of cracking it is time to replace it.
Removing old caulk begins with a carpenter’s knife and a flat screw driver or putty knife.
Using the carpenter’s knife score (cut) the old caulk line along the edge of the surfaces areas it is in contact with.
Once you have scored the old exterior caulk, use a screw driver and/or putty knife to dig the old exterior caulk out of the seam. This process can take a little time, however it is important to get all of it out of the seam before re-caulking.
Once you have removed the caulk, sweep and clean out the seam.
After you have thoroughly removed any loose particles and dust in and around the seam, apply a new bead of exterior caulk to the seam.
To help ensure smooth caulk lines, you may consider applying masking tape on either side of the seam before applying the caulk. Just remember to remove the tape immediately after applying the caulk.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Unclogging a Showerhead
By Mark J. Donovan
If your shower water pressure is not what it used to be it could be one of several problems, however it is most likely a clog in the showerhead itself.
In the showerhead unit, there is a small filter screen. This filter screen is meant to prevent small particles of sediment from clogging the tiny shower holes in the showerhead assembly. However, if you have noticed the showerhead water pressure has slowly diminished overtime; chances are the filter is clogged.
To unclog the showerhead you first need to unscrew the shower head from the shower pipe. Use a crescent wrench to unscrew the clogged showerhead.
Once you have unscrewed the clogged showerhead, you will find a small filter that sits just inside the showerhead. Using either your fingers or a small set of pliers (e.g. Needle Nose pliers) remove the filter screen from the showerhead.
If you see sediment on the filter screen rinse it off thoroughly. Then reinsert the filter screen back into the showerhead.
Next, if there is old plumbing tape (Teflon tape) on the shower pipe, remove it.
Wrap new plumbing tape around the pipe and then screw on the showerhead. Note: When applying the Teflon tape, wrap it around the pipe in the same direction that the showerhead will be tightened.
Tighten the shower head with a crest wrench just so it is snug.
Turn the shower on and observe if there is a significant improvement in the showerhead water pressure.
If you don’t see a marked improvement in your showerhead water pressure, you could still have one of several problems. It may be that the showerhead holes are clogged. If this is the case, then you will need to remove the showerhead again and soak it in a vinegar water mixture to dissolve away any build up in the holes.
If you notice that your water pressure is low in your entire home then you may have a problem with you well pump or water holding tank. If this is the case, you will need to call a plumber.
Readmore »»
If your shower water pressure is not what it used to be it could be one of several problems, however it is most likely a clog in the showerhead itself.
In the showerhead unit, there is a small filter screen. This filter screen is meant to prevent small particles of sediment from clogging the tiny shower holes in the showerhead assembly. However, if you have noticed the showerhead water pressure has slowly diminished overtime; chances are the filter is clogged.
To unclog the showerhead you first need to unscrew the shower head from the shower pipe. Use a crescent wrench to unscrew the clogged showerhead.
Once you have unscrewed the clogged showerhead, you will find a small filter that sits just inside the showerhead. Using either your fingers or a small set of pliers (e.g. Needle Nose pliers) remove the filter screen from the showerhead.
If you see sediment on the filter screen rinse it off thoroughly. Then reinsert the filter screen back into the showerhead.
Next, if there is old plumbing tape (Teflon tape) on the shower pipe, remove it.
Wrap new plumbing tape around the pipe and then screw on the showerhead. Note: When applying the Teflon tape, wrap it around the pipe in the same direction that the showerhead will be tightened.
Tighten the shower head with a crest wrench just so it is snug.
Turn the shower on and observe if there is a significant improvement in the showerhead water pressure.
If you don’t see a marked improvement in your showerhead water pressure, you could still have one of several problems. It may be that the showerhead holes are clogged. If this is the case, then you will need to remove the showerhead again and soak it in a vinegar water mixture to dissolve away any build up in the holes.
If you notice that your water pressure is low in your entire home then you may have a problem with you well pump or water holding tank. If this is the case, you will need to call a plumber.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Use Masking Tape to get Clean Caulk Lines
By Mark J. Donovan
When caulking around a bathtub, or over any type of seam, the best way to get clean lines is to use a little masking tape.
Note: If there is old caulk that is dried out and peeling away from a seam remove it before applying new caulk.
Once the seam is ready to be caulked, apply masking tape to either side of the seam such that you create a gap for applying the caulk.
Now apply your caulk with a caulking gun.
Next use a moist towel, or finger, and run it down the length of the freshly caulked seam.
Allow the caulk to set up a few minutes, and then peel away the masking tape.
With the tape removed, you will have clean lines that are uniform in width the length of the caulk seam. Readmore »»
When caulking around a bathtub, or over any type of seam, the best way to get clean lines is to use a little masking tape.
Note: If there is old caulk that is dried out and peeling away from a seam remove it before applying new caulk.
Once the seam is ready to be caulked, apply masking tape to either side of the seam such that you create a gap for applying the caulk.
Now apply your caulk with a caulking gun.
Next use a moist towel, or finger, and run it down the length of the freshly caulked seam.
Allow the caulk to set up a few minutes, and then peel away the masking tape.
With the tape removed, you will have clean lines that are uniform in width the length of the caulk seam. Readmore »»
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Control Garden Weeds with Landscape Fabric
By mark J. Donovan
Are you tired of weeding your garden on a weekly basis? Or if you are one of those who don’t regularly weed your garden, are you disappointed with the look and production of your garden? Well if you are, read on …..
When planting a garden consider using landscape fabric for vegetables that you plant individually. It is ideal for planting tomatoes, peppers, summer squash, broccoli, cauliflower and other individual plants. Landscape fabric is ideal for controlling weeds, it’s inexpensive, and it helps keep moisture in the soil. It also helps to keep the ground warmer around the plant enabling faster and shorter growing times.
You can find landscaping fabric, (a.k.a. as geotextiles) at any home improvement or garden store. Landscape fabric typically comes in rolls approximately 3’x50’ or 3’x100’.
To install the landscaping fabric in the garden, roll it out the length of the row or the length of plants you want to plant. Next, cover the ends and sides of the landscape fabric with soil.
Using a knife cut an X into the fabric where you want to plant the vegetable plant. Using a garden trowel simply dig a hole, and plant the vegetable plant. Water the plant well after back filling around it.
Note: It’s best to fertilize the soil a week or so before you install the landscaping fabric. Readmore »»
Are you tired of weeding your garden on a weekly basis? Or if you are one of those who don’t regularly weed your garden, are you disappointed with the look and production of your garden? Well if you are, read on …..
When planting a garden consider using landscape fabric for vegetables that you plant individually. It is ideal for planting tomatoes, peppers, summer squash, broccoli, cauliflower and other individual plants. Landscape fabric is ideal for controlling weeds, it’s inexpensive, and it helps keep moisture in the soil. It also helps to keep the ground warmer around the plant enabling faster and shorter growing times.
You can find landscaping fabric, (a.k.a. as geotextiles) at any home improvement or garden store. Landscape fabric typically comes in rolls approximately 3’x50’ or 3’x100’.
To install the landscaping fabric in the garden, roll it out the length of the row or the length of plants you want to plant. Next, cover the ends and sides of the landscape fabric with soil.
Using a knife cut an X into the fabric where you want to plant the vegetable plant. Using a garden trowel simply dig a hole, and plant the vegetable plant. Water the plant well after back filling around it.
Note: It’s best to fertilize the soil a week or so before you install the landscaping fabric. Readmore »»
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)