By Mark J. Donovan
If you plan on installing hardwood flooring on a concrete slab you first need to make sure the concrete slab is level. If it is not, then depending upon how unlevel it is you either first need to apply a leveling compound, or build a shimmed subfloor.
Regardless if the concrete slab floor is level you should always build a wood subfloor for the hardwood flooring to rest on. The subfloor should be framed with pressure treated 2x4s or other wood material such that water wicking up from the concrete slab will not destroy the subfloor over time.
As you build the subfloor you can adjust its height with shims so that you create a completely level floor. Just remember to start the construction of the subfloor at the highest point in the room.
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Sunday, September 28, 2008
How to Stop Creaking Stairs
By Mark J. Donovan
Do you have stairs that creak and squeak? This is a sure sign that the stair treads are no longer securely fastened to the stair risers. This can happen over time due to the stair treads drying out or warping, the house settling, or just from a lot of use.
If your stairs are covered by carpet the only way to resolve the creaking stairs is to first remove the carpet. After removing the carpet, pre-drill a couple of pilot holes along the line of existing nails on the stair tread and then install some addition screws. You may also want to run a bead of glue over the screw threads before screwing it into the tread for extra support.
If your stair treads are meant to be exposed then if possible try applying glue and screws to the back side of the stair risers and treads, if you can get to them, e.g. via a basement or lower floor. If you cannot get to the backsides of the stair treads, then you can either remove the tread carefully and apply glue and new screws/nails, or add additional screws to the tread. If new screws are added, you will need to pre-drill the holes and then fill in the screw holes.
Readmore »»
Do you have stairs that creak and squeak? This is a sure sign that the stair treads are no longer securely fastened to the stair risers. This can happen over time due to the stair treads drying out or warping, the house settling, or just from a lot of use.
If your stairs are covered by carpet the only way to resolve the creaking stairs is to first remove the carpet. After removing the carpet, pre-drill a couple of pilot holes along the line of existing nails on the stair tread and then install some addition screws. You may also want to run a bead of glue over the screw threads before screwing it into the tread for extra support.
If your stair treads are meant to be exposed then if possible try applying glue and screws to the back side of the stair risers and treads, if you can get to them, e.g. via a basement or lower floor. If you cannot get to the backsides of the stair treads, then you can either remove the tread carefully and apply glue and new screws/nails, or add additional screws to the tread. If new screws are added, you will need to pre-drill the holes and then fill in the screw holes.
Readmore »»
Tile to Floor Transition Solution
By Mark J. Donovan
When installing tile in a bathroom or kitchen frequently there is a floor height transition issue with an adjoining room, e.g. between a bathroom and hallway. Sometimes the tile to floor transition height difference can be as much as ¾” or more. One simple solution for this is to install a piece of marble in the threshold of the door or in the transition area. You can buy marble thresholds at any home improvement store and they come in widths up to several inches and approximately ½” in height. You can also go to any stone store and order a custom cut granite transition piece with a beveled edge to make the transition even more gradual.
Readmore »»
When installing tile in a bathroom or kitchen frequently there is a floor height transition issue with an adjoining room, e.g. between a bathroom and hallway. Sometimes the tile to floor transition height difference can be as much as ¾” or more. One simple solution for this is to install a piece of marble in the threshold of the door or in the transition area. You can buy marble thresholds at any home improvement store and they come in widths up to several inches and approximately ½” in height. You can also go to any stone store and order a custom cut granite transition piece with a beveled edge to make the transition even more gradual.
Readmore »»
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Reverse Ceiling Fan Rotation to Save on Winter Heating Bills
By Mark J. Donovan
Not only can ceiling fans help keep your family feeling cooler in summer months, they can also keep them feeling warmer in winter months. Though ceiling fans do not produce cool or warm air, they do help circulate it, which can help make your family feel more comfortable during hot or cold seasons.
Ceiling fan blades should be set to turn in a counter clockwise direction during summer months and alternatively they should be set to turn in a clockwise direction in winter months..
By setting the blade rotation to turn in a clockwise direction, the ceiling fan will push warm air downwards, thus recycling the warm air that drifted up from the baseboard heaters, or floor registers. As a result, your family will feel warmer without having to crank up the thermostat, thus saving you money on winter heating bills.
Not only can ceiling fans help keep your family feeling cooler in summer months, they can also keep them feeling warmer in winter months. Though ceiling fans do not produce cool or warm air, they do help circulate it, which can help make your family feel more comfortable during hot or cold seasons.
Ceiling fan blades should be set to turn in a counter clockwise direction during summer months and alternatively they should be set to turn in a clockwise direction in winter months..
By setting the blade rotation to turn in a clockwise direction, the ceiling fan will push warm air downwards, thus recycling the warm air that drifted up from the baseboard heaters, or floor registers. As a result, your family will feel warmer without having to crank up the thermostat, thus saving you money on winter heating bills.
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Monday, September 22, 2008
Prevent Mold and Mildew on Home Exterior
By Mark J. Donovan
Do you have mold or mildew forming on your roof shingles or home siding? If so there are a few basic things you can do to prevent this situation from reoccurring after you remove what is already there for mold and mildew.
There are three main reasons why mold and mildew form on your home’s exterior. They are (1) high moisture levels, (2) lack of airflow, and (3) lack of sunshine.
To prevent mold and mildew from forming on the exterior of your home you need to address all three of these issues.
For preventative care on an existing home, look at the shrubs and trees around your home. Keep the shrubs trimmed and away from the home siding. Second, if your home is enveloped by large trees remove them, or at least thin them out. This will allow sunshine to come through and hit the home, as well as allow air to circulate around the home. The sunlight and airflow will help keep the home drier and thus prevent mold and mildew from forming.
If you have plans to build a new home, make sure you consider where your roof valleys will lie relative to the sun. If your roof valleys are planned to face north, chances are you will eventually have mold and mildew forming on the roof shingles and siding that is constantly shaded. Remember from your boy/girl scouts days and the training that moss typically forms on the north sides of trees. The same is true with houses.
Consider positioning your home so that the roof valleys get sufficient sunlight throughout the day, or eliminating the roof valleys where they would otherwise face the north. Of course changing roof valleys in your home design might sound drastic, but on the other hand dealing with mold and mildew on your home can alternatively become a big problem for you and your number one investment.
Readmore »»
Do you have mold or mildew forming on your roof shingles or home siding? If so there are a few basic things you can do to prevent this situation from reoccurring after you remove what is already there for mold and mildew.
There are three main reasons why mold and mildew form on your home’s exterior. They are (1) high moisture levels, (2) lack of airflow, and (3) lack of sunshine.
To prevent mold and mildew from forming on the exterior of your home you need to address all three of these issues.
For preventative care on an existing home, look at the shrubs and trees around your home. Keep the shrubs trimmed and away from the home siding. Second, if your home is enveloped by large trees remove them, or at least thin them out. This will allow sunshine to come through and hit the home, as well as allow air to circulate around the home. The sunlight and airflow will help keep the home drier and thus prevent mold and mildew from forming.
If you have plans to build a new home, make sure you consider where your roof valleys will lie relative to the sun. If your roof valleys are planned to face north, chances are you will eventually have mold and mildew forming on the roof shingles and siding that is constantly shaded. Remember from your boy/girl scouts days and the training that moss typically forms on the north sides of trees. The same is true with houses.
Consider positioning your home so that the roof valleys get sufficient sunlight throughout the day, or eliminating the roof valleys where they would otherwise face the north. Of course changing roof valleys in your home design might sound drastic, but on the other hand dealing with mold and mildew on your home can alternatively become a big problem for you and your number one investment.
Readmore »»
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Home Freeze Alarms are another Alternative to a Programmable Thermostat
By Mark J. Donovan
I installed a home freeze alarm in a vacation home a couple of years ago.
Similar to the benefits of a programmable thermostat, it allows me to control the temperature of the home via a simple phone call. With two thermostats tying into it, I have one set at 50 degrees and the other set at 70 degrees. With one quick phone call I can switch the thermostat being monitored by the freeze alarm system. This is excellent when I am gone for a few weeks. I can have the heat set at 50 degrees while I am not there and then simply make a phone call to switch to the 70 degree set thermostat. All I do is call 2 hours before I set off for the home, and it is toasty warm when I get there.
In addition, the home freeze alarm protects my home by calling me if the temperature in the home goes below a pre-programmed level.
Readmore »»
I installed a home freeze alarm in a vacation home a couple of years ago.
Similar to the benefits of a programmable thermostat, it allows me to control the temperature of the home via a simple phone call. With two thermostats tying into it, I have one set at 50 degrees and the other set at 70 degrees. With one quick phone call I can switch the thermostat being monitored by the freeze alarm system. This is excellent when I am gone for a few weeks. I can have the heat set at 50 degrees while I am not there and then simply make a phone call to switch to the 70 degree set thermostat. All I do is call 2 hours before I set off for the home, and it is toasty warm when I get there.
In addition, the home freeze alarm protects my home by calling me if the temperature in the home goes below a pre-programmed level.
Readmore »»
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Removed the Air Conditioners and Closed the Pool in Anticipation of Fall
By Mark J. Donovan
With fall nearly upon us, today I decided to remove the two air conditioners from windows in our home. Unfortunately the humidity was so high, I was dripping by the time I removed them. I almost decided to plug one of them in while it sat on the floor just to cool and dry myself off.
I also closed the pool yesterday. Closing a pool is never a straight forward procedure. Inevitably I find myself running to the pool store to buy more chemicals or replacement parts. After about 6 hours though we finally had the cover on and the filter stored away.
If weather permits, next week I will be tackling some siding repair. I have a couple of water damaged clapboards that need to be replaced. If I have the time I will film the process and post it in the weeks ahead. It is always a challenge to remove a clapboard without damaging the ones below or above them.
Readmore »»
With fall nearly upon us, today I decided to remove the two air conditioners from windows in our home. Unfortunately the humidity was so high, I was dripping by the time I removed them. I almost decided to plug one of them in while it sat on the floor just to cool and dry myself off.
I also closed the pool yesterday. Closing a pool is never a straight forward procedure. Inevitably I find myself running to the pool store to buy more chemicals or replacement parts. After about 6 hours though we finally had the cover on and the filter stored away.
If weather permits, next week I will be tackling some siding repair. I have a couple of water damaged clapboards that need to be replaced. If I have the time I will film the process and post it in the weeks ahead. It is always a challenge to remove a clapboard without damaging the ones below or above them.
Readmore »»
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Sistering Lumber to existing Ceiling Joists
Turning an otherwise unused large attic space into a bedroom or game room is a great idea to create more living space in your home.
However, if you are considering creating a bedroom in an attic you will probably need to sister new lumber, such as 2x6s or 2x8s to the existing ceiling joists. If the ceiling joists are on 24” centers then you should also add new ceiling joists (floor joists) in between the existing ceiling joists. These steps are extremely important when converting an attic into a formal living space. The additional lumber will help to ensure the new bedroom floor won't flex and/or cause cracks in the ceiling drywall below the attic.
Check with your local building inspector to determine your attic’s specific framing needs prior to beginning construction.
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Thursday, September 4, 2008
A Dremel Tool is the tool of choice for Removing Grout around a Broken Tile
By Mark J. Donovan
If you need to replace a broken ceramic tile, then you are going to first need to remove the old grout from around it. A Dremel Tool, such as the Dremel MultiPro Cordless 7700-02 20,000 RPM Two-Speed 7.2V Rotary Tool System w/50 Accessories
, is perfect for removing grout on small ceramic tile repair projects.
To remove grout from around ceramic tile, care has to be taken not to damage the surrounding tiles. A hammer and chisel can be used for removing the grout, however you run the risk of damaging the neighboring tiles. A dremel tool on the other hand, has a high speed rotary head that you can insert various bits onto, such as a cutter, that can make short work of removing old grout.
A dremel tool is relatively inexpensive and has a million and one applications around the home. Take a look at one, prior to making your next tile repair.
Readmore »»
If you need to replace a broken ceramic tile, then you are going to first need to remove the old grout from around it. A Dremel Tool, such as the Dremel MultiPro Cordless 7700-02 20,000 RPM Two-Speed 7.2V Rotary Tool System w/50 Accessories
To remove grout from around ceramic tile, care has to be taken not to damage the surrounding tiles. A hammer and chisel can be used for removing the grout, however you run the risk of damaging the neighboring tiles. A dremel tool on the other hand, has a high speed rotary head that you can insert various bits onto, such as a cutter, that can make short work of removing old grout.
A dremel tool is relatively inexpensive and has a million and one applications around the home. Take a look at one, prior to making your next tile repair.
Readmore »»
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