By Mark J. Donovan
If you exercise regularly and have an exercise area in your unfinished basement, then you probably already understand the value of having a chin up bar. In this video Mark shows how to install a chin up bar using some basic materials and house hold tools.
Mark Donovan, of HomeAdditionPlus.com shows how to install a chin up bar in an unfinished basement.
After watching this video, you'll be able to install your own chin up bar in less than an hour.
Readmore »»
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Floor Care
Tips on How To Take Care of your Floors to Keep them Looking Newer Longer
Carpet Care
Let's start by saying that the most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your new carpet or rug is to vacuum it. Regular vacuuming removes those nasty dirt particles that leave it looking dingy over time and abrade the fiber, which shortens its lifespan. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush or beater bar, which stimulates the carpet tufts and loosens the dirt and soil. (Plus, schedule regular professional cleanings to remove soil accumulation that your regular vacuum can't reach.) If your area rug has a fringe, make sure it's sewn on well, and use the vacuum carefully.
If you have a thick carpet and want to remove any tracks the vacuum makes (it's called shading), you might try vacuuming in one direction, and then smoothing the carpet surface by hand.
You can help to reduce wear in your carpet by occasionally alternating your furniture placement to change the "traffic lanes" and allow the carpet to wear more uniformly. Be sure to vacuum these specific areas more often to reduce dirt particles, which can lead to matting too.
Vinyl Flooring Care
Caring for a vinyl floor is fairly easy, but there are some general rules.
Vacuum regularly to remove grit and sand, and wash your floor occasionally with the manufacturer's recommended floor cleaner. (Never use abrasive cleaners, soaps, paste waxes or solvents, though.) Also, to keep sand and grit from being tracked onto the floor, non-staining walk-off mats should be placed at every outside entry to the room.
Dull-looking vinyl floors can be restored to their original gloss with the manufacturer's recommended floor polish - but first, try cleaning to make sure a film on the floor isn't causing the dullness. With inexpensive PVC floors, you should consider using 2-3 coats of polish - any vinyl floor with a PVC wearlayer (that's a fancy name for surface) shows scuffs, scratches, and other marks very easily and by adding those coats of polish you'll make the floor easier to maintain.
When moving heavy objects across a vinyl floor, place plywood sheets down first and move the object over them.
Area Rug Care
Let's start by saying that the most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your new carpet or rug is to vacuum it. Regular vacuuming removes those nasty dirt particles that leave it looking dingy over time and abrade the fiber, which shortens its lifespan. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush or beater bar, which stimulates the carpet tufts and loosens the dirt and soil. (Plus, schedule regular professional cleanings to remove soil accumulation that your regular vacuum can't reach.) If your area rug has a fringe, make sure it's sewn on well, and use the vacuum carefully.
If you have a thick carpet and want to remove any tracks the vacuum makes (it's called shading), you might try vacuuming in one direction, and then smoothing the carpet surface by hand.
You can help to reduce wear in your carpet by occasionally alternating your furniture placement to change the "traffic lanes" and allow the carpet to wear more uniformly. Be sure to vacuum these specific areas more often to reduce dirt particles, which can lead to matting too.
Laminate Flooring Care
Laminate floors will give you years of sturdy life if you follow some regular maintenance tips.
Start by vacuuming your floor regularly using soft brush attachments. Wipe with a damp cloth or damp mop when necessary.
Even though these floors are extremely durable, they can be scratched, so you want to protect the floor from grit and sharp objects at all times. And always use felt pads or wide based casters underneath all chair and furniture legs. When moving heavy objects across the floor, use extra care and place walk off mats by all exterior doorways.
There are some "don'ts" when it comes to laminate floors, too. They should not be polished or waxed, and you should never use steel wool or harsh abrasive cleaners on them.
And never, ever try to refinish or sand a laminate floor.
Hardwood Flooring Care
To keep your hardwood floor looking beautiful, there are some simple procedures you should follow.
Vacuum regularly and use non-staining mats at exterior entrances to keep sand, dirt, grease, and oil outside.
To protect your floor's finish, use pads underneath furniture legs to help prevent scratching, and, while we're on the subject, keep all your pets nails trimmed, too. Along that same line, when moving any heavy objects (like furniture or appliances, for instance), use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood on the floor.
When cleaning the floor, always use the manufacturer's recommended cleaning procedures. Avoid getting water on the floor, too, as it may cause the wood grain to rise, or the boards to cup.
And be careful about exposure to the sun, because UV rays do the same thing to wood that they do to skin: accelerate the aging, which causes the wood stain to change color.
For more information on flooring please see our website at http://www.jpflooring.com/.
About the Author: Dave Dumoulin is a flooring expert and representative of JP Flooring, a Cincinnati Flooring Company. For more information please visit our site at http://www.jpflooring.com/. Readmore »»
Carpet Care
Let's start by saying that the most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your new carpet or rug is to vacuum it. Regular vacuuming removes those nasty dirt particles that leave it looking dingy over time and abrade the fiber, which shortens its lifespan. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush or beater bar, which stimulates the carpet tufts and loosens the dirt and soil. (Plus, schedule regular professional cleanings to remove soil accumulation that your regular vacuum can't reach.) If your area rug has a fringe, make sure it's sewn on well, and use the vacuum carefully.
If you have a thick carpet and want to remove any tracks the vacuum makes (it's called shading), you might try vacuuming in one direction, and then smoothing the carpet surface by hand.
You can help to reduce wear in your carpet by occasionally alternating your furniture placement to change the "traffic lanes" and allow the carpet to wear more uniformly. Be sure to vacuum these specific areas more often to reduce dirt particles, which can lead to matting too.
Vinyl Flooring Care
Caring for a vinyl floor is fairly easy, but there are some general rules.
Vacuum regularly to remove grit and sand, and wash your floor occasionally with the manufacturer's recommended floor cleaner. (Never use abrasive cleaners, soaps, paste waxes or solvents, though.) Also, to keep sand and grit from being tracked onto the floor, non-staining walk-off mats should be placed at every outside entry to the room.
Dull-looking vinyl floors can be restored to their original gloss with the manufacturer's recommended floor polish - but first, try cleaning to make sure a film on the floor isn't causing the dullness. With inexpensive PVC floors, you should consider using 2-3 coats of polish - any vinyl floor with a PVC wearlayer (that's a fancy name for surface) shows scuffs, scratches, and other marks very easily and by adding those coats of polish you'll make the floor easier to maintain.
When moving heavy objects across a vinyl floor, place plywood sheets down first and move the object over them.
Area Rug Care
Let's start by saying that the most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your new carpet or rug is to vacuum it. Regular vacuuming removes those nasty dirt particles that leave it looking dingy over time and abrade the fiber, which shortens its lifespan. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush or beater bar, which stimulates the carpet tufts and loosens the dirt and soil. (Plus, schedule regular professional cleanings to remove soil accumulation that your regular vacuum can't reach.) If your area rug has a fringe, make sure it's sewn on well, and use the vacuum carefully.
If you have a thick carpet and want to remove any tracks the vacuum makes (it's called shading), you might try vacuuming in one direction, and then smoothing the carpet surface by hand.
You can help to reduce wear in your carpet by occasionally alternating your furniture placement to change the "traffic lanes" and allow the carpet to wear more uniformly. Be sure to vacuum these specific areas more often to reduce dirt particles, which can lead to matting too.
Laminate Flooring Care
Laminate floors will give you years of sturdy life if you follow some regular maintenance tips.
Start by vacuuming your floor regularly using soft brush attachments. Wipe with a damp cloth or damp mop when necessary.
Even though these floors are extremely durable, they can be scratched, so you want to protect the floor from grit and sharp objects at all times. And always use felt pads or wide based casters underneath all chair and furniture legs. When moving heavy objects across the floor, use extra care and place walk off mats by all exterior doorways.
There are some "don'ts" when it comes to laminate floors, too. They should not be polished or waxed, and you should never use steel wool or harsh abrasive cleaners on them.
And never, ever try to refinish or sand a laminate floor.
Hardwood Flooring Care
To keep your hardwood floor looking beautiful, there are some simple procedures you should follow.
Vacuum regularly and use non-staining mats at exterior entrances to keep sand, dirt, grease, and oil outside.
To protect your floor's finish, use pads underneath furniture legs to help prevent scratching, and, while we're on the subject, keep all your pets nails trimmed, too. Along that same line, when moving any heavy objects (like furniture or appliances, for instance), use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood on the floor.
When cleaning the floor, always use the manufacturer's recommended cleaning procedures. Avoid getting water on the floor, too, as it may cause the wood grain to rise, or the boards to cup.
And be careful about exposure to the sun, because UV rays do the same thing to wood that they do to skin: accelerate the aging, which causes the wood stain to change color.
For more information on flooring please see our website at http://www.jpflooring.com/.
About the Author: Dave Dumoulin is a flooring expert and representative of JP Flooring, a Cincinnati Flooring Company. For more information please visit our site at http://www.jpflooring.com/. Readmore »»
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
How to Install Ceramic Tile Backerboard on Subfloor
By Mark J. Donovan
When installing ceramic floor tiling it is best to install a cementitious ceramic tile backerboard over the subfloor first.
A ceramic tile backerboard should be installed on a subfloor that is expected to have high foot traffic. A backerboard of 1/4" or 1/2" thickness should be installed over the subfloor. The subfloor should be constructed out of 3/4" tongue and groove plywood installed over 16" on center floor joists. If the subfloor is warped, or flexes when you walk on it, then another 1/2" layer of exterior grade plywood should be installed over it. This second layer of subfloor should be secured to the base layer with screws or nails spaced every 6 inches on-center. The length of the screws or nails used should not be longer than the thickness of the two combined sublayers.
Once the subfloor is structurally sound you should next install 1/4" or 1/2" thick cementitious ceramic tile backerboard over it. The ceramic tile backerboard should be secured to the subfloor using a non-modified thinset mortar and 1-1/4" screws or nails spaced on 6" centers. Use a 1/4" x 1/4" trowel for applying the thinset mortar.
It is important to note that the thinset mortar is not used to secure the backerboard to the subfloor. Instead, it is used to fill voids between the backboard and the subfloor to eliminate any flexing between the two layers.
When installing the backerboard, space the boards 1/8" apart from one another. Fill the gaps with thinset mortar, as this will help to bridge any ridges between panels. Also, apply fiberglass tape into the mortar over the seams. Trowel a skim coat of mortar over the tape and smooth it out with a flat trowel.
Once the thinset mortar has dried, the ceramic tile can be installed. Readmore »»
When installing ceramic floor tiling it is best to install a cementitious ceramic tile backerboard over the subfloor first.
A ceramic tile backerboard should be installed on a subfloor that is expected to have high foot traffic. A backerboard of 1/4" or 1/2" thickness should be installed over the subfloor. The subfloor should be constructed out of 3/4" tongue and groove plywood installed over 16" on center floor joists. If the subfloor is warped, or flexes when you walk on it, then another 1/2" layer of exterior grade plywood should be installed over it. This second layer of subfloor should be secured to the base layer with screws or nails spaced every 6 inches on-center. The length of the screws or nails used should not be longer than the thickness of the two combined sublayers.
Once the subfloor is structurally sound you should next install 1/4" or 1/2" thick cementitious ceramic tile backerboard over it. The ceramic tile backerboard should be secured to the subfloor using a non-modified thinset mortar and 1-1/4" screws or nails spaced on 6" centers. Use a 1/4" x 1/4" trowel for applying the thinset mortar.
It is important to note that the thinset mortar is not used to secure the backerboard to the subfloor. Instead, it is used to fill voids between the backboard and the subfloor to eliminate any flexing between the two layers.
When installing the backerboard, space the boards 1/8" apart from one another. Fill the gaps with thinset mortar, as this will help to bridge any ridges between panels. Also, apply fiberglass tape into the mortar over the seams. Trowel a skim coat of mortar over the tape and smooth it out with a flat trowel.
Once the thinset mortar has dried, the ceramic tile can be installed. Readmore »»
Monday, December 24, 2007
Snow Roof Rakes
By Mark J. Donovan
Heavy snow left on your home’s roof can cause structural damage and water damage to your home if left unchecked. One of the best ways to get rid of snow off your home’s roof is to use a snow roof rake. They are light weight, have telescopic poles to enable very long reaches, and are much safer to use then climbing up on your roof with a snow shovel.
Snow that is left on your roof will typically melt during the day and refreeze up during the night. This process causes ice dams to form at the eves of your roof. Over time the melting snow, or worse yet a heavy rain storm, can cause water to back up under the shingles and cause water to seep into the home. Besides, causing water damage to the home it can also lead to rot and mildew forming on the plywood and roof rafters in the attic.
A clear sign your home is experiencing the affects of Ice damming is if you see water dripping in around the tops of your windows that reside on the eve sides of a roof. Also, if you all of a sudden see water lines running along a length of your finished ceiling, it is a sure sign that water is working its way under the shingles due to ice dams.
A snow roof rake is an excellent tool for removing snow from your roof to help reduce and prevent ice dam build up. Preferably you should try to remove several feet of snow from the edge of the roof as soon as the snow gets several inches deep. Snow roof rakes are made typically from aluminum and thus are extremely light weight. Many of them come with telescopic poles that can extend up to 20 to 24 feet in length. They also usually have a rubber covering on the blade edge to help prevent the roof rake from damaging the roof shingles.
Snow roof rakes are easy to use, and most of the time, do not require the use of a ladder. You can find snow roof rakes at most hardware stores or home improvement centers and can expect to pay between $20 to $50 dollars for one. Readmore »»
Heavy snow left on your home’s roof can cause structural damage and water damage to your home if left unchecked. One of the best ways to get rid of snow off your home’s roof is to use a snow roof rake. They are light weight, have telescopic poles to enable very long reaches, and are much safer to use then climbing up on your roof with a snow shovel.
Snow that is left on your roof will typically melt during the day and refreeze up during the night. This process causes ice dams to form at the eves of your roof. Over time the melting snow, or worse yet a heavy rain storm, can cause water to back up under the shingles and cause water to seep into the home. Besides, causing water damage to the home it can also lead to rot and mildew forming on the plywood and roof rafters in the attic.
A clear sign your home is experiencing the affects of Ice damming is if you see water dripping in around the tops of your windows that reside on the eve sides of a roof. Also, if you all of a sudden see water lines running along a length of your finished ceiling, it is a sure sign that water is working its way under the shingles due to ice dams.
A snow roof rake is an excellent tool for removing snow from your roof to help reduce and prevent ice dam build up. Preferably you should try to remove several feet of snow from the edge of the roof as soon as the snow gets several inches deep. Snow roof rakes are made typically from aluminum and thus are extremely light weight. Many of them come with telescopic poles that can extend up to 20 to 24 feet in length. They also usually have a rubber covering on the blade edge to help prevent the roof rake from damaging the roof shingles.
Snow roof rakes are easy to use, and most of the time, do not require the use of a ladder. You can find snow roof rakes at most hardware stores or home improvement centers and can expect to pay between $20 to $50 dollars for one. Readmore »»
Monday, December 10, 2007
How to Install a Carpet Stair Runner Video
By Mark J. Donovan
Installing an inexpensive carpet stair runner on a straight hardwood stair case is something most DIY homeowners can do.
In this video, Mark Donovan of Homeadditionplus.com, explains step by step the process of cutting stair runner carpet, stapling it into the stair risers and treads, and installing stair rods to secure the stair runner carpet to the treads.
Please note that this is an inexpensive carpet stair runner that is installed in this video. This type of carpet stair runner can be purchased at any home improvement store and it comes with a no-slip rubber backing. If more expensive carpet is used for the stair runner, a carpet pad and tack strips should be used.
The tools required for this project included:
- Square
- Carpenter's Knife
- Drill and Drill bits
- Screw Gun
- A stapler with 9/16 inch staples and 5/8 inch brads
- Straight Edge
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)